Lo is a remote Himalayan province situated north of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges. It is surrounded by the Tibetan plateau on all sides except the south. Due to its proximity to, and long association with Tibet, Tibetan Buddhist lifestyles, religion, art, and culture remain intact. In the 15th and 16th centuries Lo was a rich and flourishing independent Kingdom. This can still be seen today from its magnificent monasteries, palaces, and the remains of massive, rambling forts known as dzong.
During the 15th and 16th centuries, the acquisition of immense fortunes from the salt trade made Mustang a highly prosperous kingdom. Mustang became an important transit point on the salt trade route between the dry saline lakes of Tibet, and the large markets for salt on the Indian Subcontinent. Later, due to the decline of the salt trade, agriculture and animal husbandry became the most important occupations of the people.
Lo was traditionally divided into seven provinces, referred to as “Lo Tso Dhun”, which corresponds to the present Village Development Committees (VDC) of Lo Manthang, Tsarang, Ghemi, Surkhang, Conup and Choser. Much decision making concerning traditional matters such as festivals, land tenure and religion, is still made by councils that are convened under the traditional Lo Tsu Dun, while more modern civil matters are handled by the VDCs.
The people of Lo are called ‘Lobas’, and their language is a dialect of Tibetan. The people follow Tibetan Buddhism. In Tibetan Buddhism, monasteries and monastic communities play a major role. Most of the monasteries in Upper Mustang belong to the Sakyapa School, represented by the characteristics coloured stripes of grey, white and red that adorn the monasteries (similar to the monastery of Sakya in Tibet).
The people of Mustang are highly religious, and prayers and festivals such as Tiji form an integral part of their lives. In Mustang, nearly every village has a monastery.
The stunning grandeur of the monasteries in Lo Manthang, in particular, illustrates the prominent position of religion amid an adversarial environment. Change is evident in Lo too. Motorable roads are being constructed, electricity is being brought to villages, local schools and monastic schools are being revived, and the age-old icons, Jampa and Thupchen Monasteries, are being renovated to their former glory. The festival of Tiji continues at its own pace amidst a whirlwind of modernization. |
