The beating of drums and singing fill the air as the ancient thangka (religious scroll painting) of Padmasambhava (Guru Rinpoche, Tibetan buddhism’s Lotus-born Saint) is brought from the Palace of Lo Manthang into the square. The people of Lo (upper Mustang) eagerly await its arrival. Through clouds of incense, and with great clamor and anticipation, the monks place the thangka on display by rolling it down a huge wall.
This is the beginning of Tenpa Chirim, the most importance festival of Lo, which is celebrated by the people of Lo Tso Dhun (the seven provinces of Upper Mustang).
The term ‘Tenpa Chirim’ literally means “the hope that the Buddha’s Dharma will prevail in all places and among all people of the world”. The festival is popularly known as “Tiji”, which is a mispronunciation of the word “Tenchi”, which itself is the short form for Tenpa Chirim.
Tiji is reserved as a harbinger of hope and peace, and is based on the myth of a deity named Dorje Shunu (Vajrakila), who was reborn in order to defeat the demons and evil forces that created hell and suffering on earth. Through the power of his dances and the variety of forms he takes, he is able to defeat the demons and thereby bring peace and prosperity to the country. Thus, the festival depicts the triumph of good over evil.
During this three-day masked dance festival, Dorje Shunnu reveaks his various forms, and an ancient thangka of Padmasambhava is unfolded. The king (Gyalpo) and Queen (Gyalmo) of Mustang are dressed in their traditional attire when attending the ceremony. Over the years, this festival has now become a major tourist attraction in Upper Mustang
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