Ghami and Tserang (the old capital) are particularly wonderful towns: choosing a favourite village is invidious, as they are all wonderfully atmospheric in their little oases of terraced fields, but don’t miss Drakmar under its famous red cliffs and Chhusang, down in the main gorge, with its caravanserai pens and narrow, winding main street lined with ancient courtyard-houses . We particularly liked Samar, in a poplar grove and possessing perhaps the best Annapurna views as well as our favourite campsite, on an enclosed terrace by a rushing stream. Walled Lo Munthang (pop apparently 1,000, although it feels like more), the capital, lies in the far north, below the range that separates Mustang from Tibet. As well as the sturdy palace of the Rajas, direct descendants of the kingdom’s 14th century founder, whose rule ended finally in 2008, it contains Mustang’s finest collection of monasteries and a maze of fascinating streets.